Introduction

Gates with vertical tubing can be made with No-weld Box Section framing with holes drilled in it where needed for the tubes that are then screwed directly into the frame with all screws concealed with clip on caps giving a unique clean look possible only because there are no welds and no screws visible. Swing gates can go up to 4m wide x 2m high and sliding gates 6m wide x 2m high. Gates higher than 1.2m have a middle rail (as illustrated) ... READ MORE

Sliding gates do require a sliding gate channel see No-weld sliding gates and No-weld Telescopic Sliding Gates to learn more.

No-weld gates may have many different finishes  READ MORE 

What's included in a No-weld Tubular Gate DIY Kit?

Kits come pre-cut and drilled ready to assemble. 

Getting a Quote and Ordering

You can get an instant quote for a DIY gate kit or if there's an installer in your area full installation from one of our Instant Quote pages:

Instant Quote Pedestrian GateInstant Quote for Driveway Gate

Things to Consider 

Vertical Tubing is 16mm diameter only although can have any spacing between centres so they fit into the width of the gate evenly. Gates may have the verticals passing through the top rail with the top open or capped with cast aluminium spears of various different designs or have a double top or middle rail with various details such as rings, diamonds, crosses or swirls added for a wrought iron effect. 

Making No-weld Tubular Gate kits yourself.

If you're in the gate or fence business and want to save money as well as get jobs done faster (customers like it done fast), you can do so by making No-weld tubular gate kits up yourself. All you need is a good mitre saw, lengths of No-weld framing, tubing and hardware. If you keep No-weld materials in stock you could custom make tubular gate kits up yourself in a matter of hours onsite, assemble them and then install, so you don't need a workshop just somewhere to store the material and a suitable vehicle. This will give you a significant edge over your competition both time wise and price wise.  

You can order No-weld framing and hardware at the No-weld Online Shop.  

Making these gate frames requires mitred cuts, for technique on how to mitre cut No-weld framing accurately and cleanly with no burrs and drill holes for corner brackets see our our Guide to Cutting and Drilling No-weld Framing. There are other styles of gates too see What can be Made with No-weld. 

Trade Customers 

If you become one of our trade customers we can pass work onto you for free for No-weld gates, infill panels and fencing. You can either work as a fabricator only for others to install or as a fabricator and installer. See below on how No-weld tubular gates are assembled.

For more information see our No-weld for Trade and Wholesale page 

Place the pre-cut and drilled frame members on clean blocks of polystyrene foam or similar non-scratching material laid out on a flat surface with open back faces up. Fit only the top rail to begin with and middle rail if the gate is higher than 1.2m.

Corner brackets are required to hold the frame together. These are fitted by sliding them into the ends of the top rails to begin with, which have grooves in both sides to help guide the bracket in.

Then slide the stiles onto the corner brackets of the top rail. The stiles also have grooves either side to help guide the brackets in. Rails have holes in them for the vertical tubing.

For gates higher than 1.2m a middle rail is screwed to the stiles using small angle brackets pre-fitted to the stiles. There are holes in both side of the middle rail to allow vertical tubing to pass through.

Then fit four larger tek screws into each corner bracket using a cordless drill in the pattern illustrated to hold the frame together for now. The rest of he screws will be fitted later.

The vertical tubing is then passed through the middle rail for gates higher than 1.2m and inserted into the top rail or for capped topped gates passes through the top rail. The first and last tubes just miss the end of the corner brackets.

Then fit the bottom rail using the corner brackets to hold it in place as you go and angle it a bit so the vertical tubes can be inserted into the holes one at a time. Fit four screws per corner bracket for the bottom rail.

Then check the diagonals of the gate to make sure it is square. If not loosen the corner bracket screws, adjust the frame so it is square then do the screws back up again. Once square fit the rest of the screws for the corner brackets.

Then screw in all the vertical tubes with two smaller tek screws per tube per rail from the open back. The smaller tek screws are also used for attaching the middle rail.
 

Covers are then clipped into the open back of the frame and middle rail (if there is one) to hide the screws.

See Guide to Fitting No-weld Hardware for technique on how to do this. 

Once the covers are fitted hardware such as hinges, latch, stop or guide rail can be fitted to the back of the frame. See Guide to Fitting No-weld Hardware.